I knew Eva and I would make great travelling companions when I phoned her the night before we were due to fly out and discovered we shared the same sense of humour and the same capacity to faff. Indeed we spent most of the holiday laughing and faffing! If I hadn't lost or forgotten something, Eva had. Eva would remind me to take my malaria tablet every evening and I would remind her to take hers every morning as we could remember each others more than our own. The Wednesday before our departure we compared our concerns about missing the Brussel-Kigali connection because Eva only had an hour and 40 minutes to transfer and I had 55 minutes! We concocted a plan whereby we would check in online and ensure we were sitting next to each other so could instantly tell if one of us hadn't made the plane. Eva also promised to text me our gate number when she arrived so I would know where to run to. In the end, we needn't have worried as we both made the second flight without any problems - or pas de prob as would be our catchphrase throughout the trip.
We only got one film which we could hardly see as there was only one screen that we could see and that was at an awkward angle. Luckily I wasn't too bothered about the film as it was Marley and Me and not something I'd been desperate to see. The main meal was ok and the ice cream snack part way through was a great surprise. The sandwiches we were given last, however, were disgusting. After about 5 hours the flight began to pall, particularly as the light had faded.
Kigali is like Bradford at night. When looking out of the aeroplane window after touch down, I couldn't work out at first what the pinpricks of light were that stretched across the horizon in a thick band. It didn't look right for buildings or stars. Turns out it was the lights of Kigali spread out across the hills, much like the lights of Bradford as seen from Clayton Heights.
Kigali International Airport is tiny with the only direct flights available to Uganda, Tanzania, South Africa, Burundi and Brussels. In fact, to reach her conference in Tunisia, Frances had to change planes in Paris. When we saw the Rwandan groundstaff walking towards the plane pulling a trolley, we surmised we'd have a long wait for our suitcases. After disembarking we walked to the main terminal to receive a stamp in our passports.
Laurie was waiting for us as Frances had been sent to a conference in Tunisia at the last minute and wouldn't be back until Sunday. She had set up a range of friends to look after us, including Laurie who would house us until Frances returned and booked our gorilla trek so we could complete that in the meantime. Laurie brandished a sign with our names as our facebook profile pictures were not adequate for recognition purposes - mine being a cartoon of the scarecrow.
Laurie lives in a British Embassy house as her job is to monitor the relationship between the UK and Rwanda to ensure our aid is spent appropriately. An interesting job when the row over MPs' expenses has reached Rwanda. Apparently the UK has a large aid interest in Rwanda but we never hear about it due to the current economic crisis and the mixed opinions of some Britons towards foreign aid. The British government is still committted to providing this aid despite the credit crunch as this is affecting Africa too.
While Laurie lives in a large house at the top of the hill, the pooer people live further down. The rich-poor continuum is mapped out on the hills from the US Ambassador's residence at the top to the poorest shacks at the bottom. Most of the roads have no street names and the houses have no numbers, therefore, providing accurate directions to destinations using local landmarks is very important, if difficult. Frances lives in a new housing estate which does have road names and numbers and is built in a cohesive style meaning it stands out amongst the buildings of Kigali. The estate was built as part of the Vision 2020 which showcases hoe the government wants all housing to be like in Kigali in 2020.
We were a little spoilt but the embassy house which was huge. Eva and I each had our own bedroom and bathroom, there was mesh covering the windows and mosquito nets attached above the beds. There was a large dining room and lounge and these were replicated outside on the veranda. There was a also a big garden with a lawn, flowers, banana trees, rabbits and chickens.
On Friday morning Laurie was going to a tailor to have a dress made for a wedding using local fabric. Eva and I jumped at the chance to have dresses made too especially as it meant we could get our first view of Kigali by day.
The city is full of low rise one storey small shops, lots of building work, people sitting and moving about and bump roads. It is very busy and bustling. To buy the fabric we went to a suite of one room shops situated together while piles of brightly coloured and highly decorated fabrics were laid in piles and displayed on doors and walls. It took ages to decide on fabric to take into consideration what we could get away with wearing in England. Finally Eva plumped for a brown leaf design, Laurie a green circular pattern and I a green and purple combo.
We looked for the tailor down a side street - essentially an unmade dirt track but the tailor had moved and one of the locals kindly took us to his new shop on the main street - indicating he'd moved up in the world. We showed him our fabrics and then describe what we wanted using an example dress in Eva's case, a picture in a magazine in mine and both accompanied by Laurie's explanations in French. Then we were measured. The dresses take one week to make and cost about £15.
After a lunch of bread and cheese on Laurie's veranda, we went to meet Kassim, the driver Frances had engaged to take us to the gorillas. Kassim had lost most of his family in the genocide while he was at university in Kenya. He left his studies to come back to Rwanda after the genocide to support his younger siblings.
The ride to Ruhengeri took about 3 hours as we had to stop to change money and get petrol and the road was full of potholes requiring Kassim to drive sometimes at 90 angles across the road to avoid them. Driving is interesting in Rwanda. When overtooking, the vehicle you are overtaking signals right to show they've seen you, the vehicle overtaking beeps when driving passed to show they are passing. People do often overtake near bends or regardless of whether they can see, which can be frequent considering the number of hills. Ironically after commenting that the Rwandan driving was pretty good in comparison to other countries we had been to, we nearly crashed into a car overtaking a lorry round a bend. I think it helps that there aren't many vehicles on the road as the majority of the population is car-less. For ages I couldn't work out what was odd as we journeyed around the country and then I realised it was the volume of pedestrians walking alongside all of the roads.
Eva and I were so absorbed by the scenery: rolling green hills (forested or laid out on terraces); people carrying an assortment of paraphernalia on their heads, including bamboo, tools like hoes; children wrapped onto their parent's backs; people staring at us as Mzungos (or white people) are an uncommon sight; children waving at us and Genocide memorials, that we barely spoke leading Kassim to think I was from a religious family.
When we arrived at the Mountain Gorilla View Lodge after a bumpy ride down an unmade track which saw us almost thrown around the back of the minibus, I checked in while Eva was a) asked if she'd like a cup of coffee by the hotel staff and b) accosted by Kassim asking if we would check out at the same time as checking in so we could leave straight after the trek. This we weren't keen to do as we'd want showers and had paid for full board, plus this was not the agreed arrangement. I finished checking in just as Eva's coffee was ready. There had been a delay while the staff located some powdered milk. This meant Eva found herself walking across the park to our lodge, rucksack on her back and coffee cup and saucer in hand which inevitably ended up with her slopping coffee into her saucer and the ground. I wasn't offered a hot drink but was quite thankful for that after watching Eva's progress.
Rwanda doesn't get many tourists as the country is small so there isn't as much to do as in neighbouring countries, such as Tanzania and Uganda. Plus flights are expensive and many people have an ignorant percpetion of what the country is like now. If people come they tend to leave after they have trekked the gorillas. Rwandans themselves either can't afford holidays or, if they live in cities, spend their free time returning to their home villages and families. As a result, hotel staff are trying to cater for an audience they don't really understand. Most of the time you can appreciate what they're attempting to do but they get a little wrong. For example, they clearly thought they should offer their guests a hot drink upon arrival at the lodge but hadn't considered the logistics of doing this. Similarly, when we were in the restaurant for dinner, the waiter insisted on reading out the menu, even though we had to keep asking him to repeat things and could see he had the menu written English in front of him. Some of the dishes had fancy titles, such as Gorilla Salad and Chef's Special Salad but no indication was given as to what they comprised. Eva was adventurous and chose the Gorilla Salad which turned out to be avocado and tomato, rather than an endangered primate. I had soup. We both had beef strogonoff for main as we'd been told you can't get good chicken here. The Crepe Suzette for dessert came with chocolate sauce. After the meal we were brought chunks of sugar cane that we weren't quite sure how to eat. Our tactic of trying to watch other people's attempts was unsuccessful so we resorted to asking. You chew on them to release a sugary liquid without biting or swallowing pieces. The fibres themselves are quite firm and woody.
The hotel consisted of a number of lodges dotted around the landscape. The lodge had one large room with two beds and a slightly lowered sitting area (that I kept tripping into) and an adjoining bathroom. Someone came to light the fire for us as it was much cooler there than Kigali due to the altitude. Later we were provided with hot water bottles which were so scorching we had to wrap them in towels and clothing. They were still hot in the morning!
Unlike elsewhere we had stayed, there was no insect protection, possibly they were deemed unnecessary by the hotel staff due to the altitude. However, Eva and I wanted protection from the range of insects, flies and moths that were inhabiting our room. I'd brought my mosquito net with me but Eva had left hers so we spent some time insect spraying the curtains, removing insects in cups and splatting the rest with flip flops. I had to find a creative solution to the problem of where to hang my mosquito net without hooks and after losing the nail provided by Boots for the purpose down the back of the bed. In the end I used the string and tied it to the lamp above the bed. Fortunately, the beds were quite large so Eva was able to share my bed to have the safety of the net also.
